La Paz is a little record around the world: for my part, 14 days in the capital, we have never seen that! Indeed, we have quite patrolled the city in two and I lived there all the time of Matthew's unlikely trek-Rahan!
Founded in 1548 by Alonso de Mendoza to celebrate the end of civil wars, the city of La Paz is built in a basin dominated by the city of Alto. That's where we descend into the capital, offering spectacular views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains (eg Illamani which culminates at 6402 meters ...) and city dwellings. Perched at 3660 meters altitude in La Paz is also THE town of pollution .. Indeed, if its 1.5 million people borrow almost all public minibuses (green solution of the coup), the pollution levels around 90% yet in some streets as the term "technical control" over here is that a concept, a myth. Transport are closely followed by the impressive cloud of black smoke that emerges from the two exhausts, one on the side and behind a fireplace in ...
But beyond these practical aspects, La Paz, c ' is also the capital of museums since the capital is home to a dozen museums. Step cultural interest, we So we pay for unlimited time spent here to intellectualize a bit!
We begin our visits by Street Museum Street, which houses a series of 4 museums that you pay very cheap (40 Euro cents!) And contains several small exhibitions, ideal for a story the other without getting bored. Here we discover the museum's coastline, exposing how Bolivia lost part of his land, isolating the coast during the Pacific War with Chile. Indeed, with the discovery of natural reserves in the Atacama Desert salitre (formerly Bolivia) is a conflict of interest terrible is going against Bolivia and its neighbor Chile. Since 1842, Chile's borders but it fails when Bolivia imposes a tax on Chilean companies operating in its territory that Chile 14/02/1879 invaded the coastline, officially declaring the war to Bolivia two weeks later. Peru is also invaded and 3 countries go to war to 5th April of that year. But Chile, taking advantage of his lead over the field and has already reinforced the area, winning the war in 1883. In total, Bolivia will have lost the case in the province of Atacama or 480 km of coastline, Peru and throughout the province of Tarapaca. The war will also moult caused social divisions within countries will be defeated and caused the loss of 23,000 soldiers to the country. But already we change
museum and here we are in the world of Carnival. And if that Oruro is famous throughout the country, it seems that the carnival is definitely an institution. Shown here are several types of masks, which are all encoded in their meaning, and frequently represents a satire of the English administration. Thus, "moreno" is a satire of the Aymara (the second country after the ethnic group of Quechua) La Paz against those in power who governed without the participation of indigenous ... You can also read the meaning of the dances associated with the masks, such as the "diablata" very widespread dance which portrays the struggle between good and evil, the dancers mimic child abduction! Finally a lot of masks are of Andean figures.
But that's it, another room invites us into the world of "Chola PACEN", these bourgeois mestizo Bolivian origin, dressed elegantly in English with boots and everything else!. Chola PACEN the victim of discrimination, is the symbol of resistance, differentiation to the Republican era, namely in the years 1930-40.
On descend un escalier, on rentre dans une cour élégante, et nous voici dans la partie sur l’or de cette succession de petits musées. Nous sommes tout simplement éblouis par la richesse de cette exposition, dont nous vous avons volé quelques photos interdites…
Founded in 1548 by Alonso de Mendoza to celebrate the end of civil wars, the city of La Paz is built in a basin dominated by the city of Alto. That's where we descend into the capital, offering spectacular views of the surrounding snow-capped mountains (eg Illamani which culminates at 6402 meters ...) and city dwellings. Perched at 3660 meters altitude in La Paz is also THE town of pollution .. Indeed, if its 1.5 million people borrow almost all public minibuses (green solution of the coup), the pollution levels around 90% yet in some streets as the term "technical control" over here is that a concept, a myth. Transport are closely followed by the impressive cloud of black smoke that emerges from the two exhausts, one on the side and behind a fireplace in ...
But beyond these practical aspects, La Paz, c ' is also the capital of museums since the capital is home to a dozen museums. Step cultural interest, we So we pay for unlimited time spent here to intellectualize a bit!
We begin our visits by Street Museum Street, which houses a series of 4 museums that you pay very cheap (40 Euro cents!) And contains several small exhibitions, ideal for a story the other without getting bored. Here we discover the museum's coastline, exposing how Bolivia lost part of his land, isolating the coast during the Pacific War with Chile. Indeed, with the discovery of natural reserves in the Atacama Desert salitre (formerly Bolivia) is a conflict of interest terrible is going against Bolivia and its neighbor Chile. Since 1842, Chile's borders but it fails when Bolivia imposes a tax on Chilean companies operating in its territory that Chile 14/02/1879 invaded the coastline, officially declaring the war to Bolivia two weeks later. Peru is also invaded and 3 countries go to war to 5th April of that year. But Chile, taking advantage of his lead over the field and has already reinforced the area, winning the war in 1883. In total, Bolivia will have lost the case in the province of Atacama or 480 km of coastline, Peru and throughout the province of Tarapaca. The war will also moult caused social divisions within countries will be defeated and caused the loss of 23,000 soldiers to the country. But already we change
museum and here we are in the world of Carnival. And if that Oruro is famous throughout the country, it seems that the carnival is definitely an institution. Shown here are several types of masks, which are all encoded in their meaning, and frequently represents a satire of the English administration. Thus, "moreno" is a satire of the Aymara (the second country after the ethnic group of Quechua) La Paz against those in power who governed without the participation of indigenous ... You can also read the meaning of the dances associated with the masks, such as the "diablata" very widespread dance which portrays the struggle between good and evil, the dancers mimic child abduction! Finally a lot of masks are of Andean figures.
But that's it, another room invites us into the world of "Chola PACEN", these bourgeois mestizo Bolivian origin, dressed elegantly in English with boots and everything else!. Chola PACEN the victim of discrimination, is the symbol of resistance, differentiation to the Republican era, namely in the years 1930-40.
On descend un escalier, on rentre dans une cour élégante, et nous voici dans la partie sur l’or de cette succession de petits musées. Nous sommes tout simplement éblouis par la richesse de cette exposition, dont nous vous avons volé quelques photos interdites…
Diadèmes Inca, figures de la Pachamama, bijoux de la culture pré-Inca “Tiwanaku”… Cette exposition est l’une des plus belles que nous ayons vues…
Une petite balade dans les rues de La Paz,
un moment au marché noir (“vous avez des maillots de foot?”…!), des jus de fruits frais, et nous voila partis pour le musée archéologique, appelé aussi Musée de Tiwanaku puisque son exposition est centrée sur les découvertes archéologiques réalisées sur le site de Tiwanaku. Alors tout de suite un petit “rappel” historique (perso moi j’y connaissais rien mais bon!) : les Tiwanaku sont une société andine pré-Inca issue de la migration des Asiatiques il ya 25 à 30 mille ans avant JC. Cette civilisation a connu 5 grandes périodes allant de 1520 avant JC à 1200 après JC. Nous (moi?!) qui ne connaissons que les Incas, la durée de cette civilisation is impressive, considering that the Incas were terrible that existed from 1438 to 1700 AD.
The museum therefore this civilization through different aspects: the use of the coca leaf as a means of contact with the gods but also for its stimulant and analgesic, and indeed, the Tiwanaku were the first to practice surgery, and that ... The "trepanation," understand that by simply spinning the plant extract analgesics to the patient, "surgeon" digging holes in the skulls! In any case the skulls that we see here sont impressionnants, d’une part parce que l’on peut voir les trous des trépanations pour certains, d’autre part parce que les Tiwanaku pratiquaient aussi la déformation de la boite crânienne (comme ce qu’on avait vu à Oruro)! En appliquant une charge sur les têtes des bébés, cette société andine provoquait donc une déformation par esthétisme ou pour témoigner d’une appartenance à une classe sociale! Très très joli Valérie!
Le musée présente aussi les fameuses collections de céramiques (on se souvient du musée d’Alep?!), mais tellement bien conservées que s’en est passionnant. Les couleurs, les motifs (Often geometric or anthropomorphic, painted or incised), everything has remained almost intact and is a pleasure to feel transported into this pre-Columbian world.
Small note from the end, history to add a layer to the love that we devote to colonization and navel gazing that inculcates: between the arrival of the Spaniards and 1650, it is not less than 190 tons archaeological objects of gold and 17,000 silver are recovered by Spain. So I'm just saying congratulations, then!
La Paz is also the capital of coca, which is why we decided to go for a ride Museum of coca. It is true that this use, ultra popular in Bolivia developed an integral part of Bolivian culture (Evo Morales up to defend it by chewing at the UN), is nonetheless illegal off borders. Yet it is clearly presented in this museum the difference between chewing coca (virtues amply demonstrated through scientific tests: stimulation, fight against fatigue and hunger - coca is very nutritious containing 100g of protein and iron than in a steak - analgesic, fight against the cold ...) and manufacture of cocaine (an huge amounts of leaves to make a whole and especially chemical process). Since time immemorial, the Andean societies have used, and between each other to get in touch with the Gods. This is probably why at the beginning of colonization, the Catholic Church saw this film in probably his sworn enemy, has banned its use, making demonic! The first and only time ever that a single sheet is simply equated with the devil! But since then, seeing that the Spaniards without coca miners could not work as well, well that's okay, we reviewed the copy of coca: She said the church is allowed, but be careful, as this is turning professional jacket, Pope adds that she will be subject to the tithe! Balaise careerists! J'adoooore religions!
Meanwhile, cocaine remains a problem and, standing up to the church to reach the top of careerists, the U.S. enters into force in Part H. Fonda, a U.S. banker (banker?? What is the relationship you ask rightly!) Denounced as harmful and coca, according to this view (youhou! Guys? Is a banker who spoke !!!), the UN eventually ban the cultivation and export of coca! Go! Ah yes but do not forget ... a detail of history. Derived from the French wine Mariani, the wine extract of coca, the drink became famous multinational born, I named Coca-Cola of course! And if Coca-Cola Company does not use cocaine (early though!) In its secret recipe, the United States anyway, in 2004, when they killed father and mother in the fight against cocaine and therefore of coca leaf, import no less than 400 tons of coca leaves! Youuu! What talent! And of course point out that, as we said, we need a sacred device for chemical processing of cocaine, illegal manufacture that took place in Cochabamba for most (in the heart of Bolivia) and who had scrambled armored products to make them land, but beware! Without anyone noticing anything (yes because here they obviously did not turn airport air ... !)??? Huh? Who? Ben United States of course! Basically, you'll understand the coca museum helped us see more clearly the use of the sheet and the difference with cocaine. But we will also be allowed to add a layer to the already matriculation busy U.S. and global interference pretentious, selfish and pushy!
It's been a lot to digest what we saw there and it's time for Matt to leave for his trek Zouf! Three-day trek in the mountains, but especially the ascent over 2 days Hyan of Potosi, at 6088 meters! Let me tell you a good look at the posters of guys who can not even smile for the camera, mouth in the snow, ice ax and painfully raised all night, I quickly said that La Paz was the ideal city to rest! So off I go for 5 days alone ... well not so lonely that since this trip, you are never alone. So I'm meeting Gaëlle whose boyfriend was also left for a few days. Small restaus, the afternoon nap, and writing a lot of articles (aller! We catch up the blog !!!), the 5 days will be spent quickly. I wanted to take English classes, I've only crossed the Plaza Murillo, historic square surrounded by the cathedral, the Legislative Palace and the Presidential Palace! Finally ... did not count on the evenings! Yes because it's dance at La Paz! And here I am part alone for 3 nights salsa! The bars here offer regular concerts of salsa (always the same group by cons ...) and plenty of dancers flock to the occasion. The mind is a good child, I am often asked and enjoy the gentle kindness of people when arriving at 23h, we have to wait over an hour before the musicians decide! This is the opportunity for me to get in touch with people and spend time talking. I love salsa so for that, because dance has no words and it lowers the barriers between people ...
But back to the culture! It does still not stop there way! I was Gaëlle do with the ethnographic museum and I found it so nice that I went there with my loulou! When one loves, one does not count, and museums focusing on the lives of people is what I prefer!
The museum first textiles (of unku "= poncho), some are of an age absolutely amazing, going to the second century! And indeed, we learn that weaving dates back to 8-10 thousand years ago!
Then we enter the heart of Andean society. The Carangas, Aymara-speaking people, were a pastoral people who built chullpares (tours funèbres) pour leurs ancêtres les “Chullpas”. Chaque famille possédait entre 150 et 300 lamas plus 20 à 30 alpagas. Les lamas étaient considérés comme un animal sacré, comme en témoigne le site de Philtuna Pucara, site dédié aux lamas (fresque) pour la fertilité, ou encore le rite du lama blanc qui était dédié à la Pachamama.
Mais plus loin, nous découvrons une salle consacrée à l’art plumesque! Ici les plumes sont considérées comme un purificateur d’air et un réceptacle d’énergie.
Pour ces vertus, et pour montrer le rang social, the feathers were erected on the heads, making hats here are some amazing examples.
Finally, a dark room showcases the carnival masks where one finds the characters of the dances mentioned above: the diablata (fight against Good and Evil), the Morenada (dance melancholic in remembrance of mistreatment of blacks), but also masks the satire of the Spaniards and their methods.
Another few days in La Paz to complete a second package, and we finally leave! La Paz, it was great, but it's still a town and city, after a moment, things are going well!
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