The next day, after a brief visit to the Internet (record EUR 5 per hour for lovers!) We decided to continue our journey backpacker to meet Cubans. So we will go out of town on the first few miles in a carriage drawn by a horse in the middle of traffic. Note, in this terrible moment the horse suffering: the whistling of the driver, car pollution and the weight of 14 people, all at a gallop, to note, therefore, the solidarity of Aude, who was surprised to see the animal do its work. Finally you think she would be lowered to help? Not at all, she encourages me to eat even a double ration of pizza if it would be too easy for the poor beast! After half an hour, so we filed the "stop" in the middle of the road, under a beautiful sun. Along the road, we enjoy the countryside, the signs very active propaganda of the Cuban Revolution, which is celebrating its 50th anniversary with patriotic slogans and often with the face of Che and Fidel. We walk a bit before we put under a tree and attempt to initiate a stop. We make ourselves take in only 206 of all Cuba, not without attendu presque pendant 2 heures, nous permettant de retrouver un peu de bronzage. A l’arrivée, nous faisons confiance au guide du routard et dénichons une magnifique petite cabane, avec une superbe vue sur les champs, la montagne et les animaux partout autour de nous. Nous sommes à 3 minutes du centre ville, mais profitons d’un cadre unique dans une coquette maison... L’occasion de déguster un petit jus de mangue frais, en se prélassant dans une chaise à bascule, qui est ici l’accessoire obligatoire de toute terrasse. C’est dans ce petit havre de paix que nous allons nous poser, comme prévu pour nous reposer et profiter de ce mode de vie un peu à la campagne.
Our host, Manzana, is very caring and tells us what we can do in the area, horseback riding, walking tour, visit to the factory for drying tobacco. But we will mostly rest and enjoy the rocking chair on the terrace the next day with a nap in the afternoon.
the evening we find the pleasure to enjoy the tropical rain, this muggy heat, the smell of hot ground water soaks for the cool evening. It is also an opportunity for us to enjoy once prepared Cuban lobster sauce, what a treat! Thus, we can redo the same the next night ... You should know that here the lobster like beef not eat in restaurants, as consumption is prohibited in a private capacity for Cubans ...
the 2 days we will walk in the vicinity.
The first day we head towards the mountains, through fields of pineapple, coffee, can cross a few feet of tobacco in small numbers, because the harvest is completed in late April (No Tobacco not like the water we explain a small producer). During our walk, we can observe a few large lizards and let us fly by large raptors in the region very clearly. Because it is a ballet in the air, with shadows that cross our path forever, to believe that they expected collapse of thirst ....! So we'll visit the cave of "cow head", traveled on foot, which actually looks very much but then, lots of imagination .... Bah as a cow's head to a bowl, to believe that here too they have chewed coca! The countryside scenery almost transports us in time so here it is all done with the tools, animals and the strength of travail. Les bœufs retournent la terre, accompagnés des cris et injonctions des paysans. Après cette petite balade et une sieste plus tard, je repars seul pour un petit footing, à défaut d’avoir été invité à une partie de football, ce malgré ma sollicitation. Le soleil se couche doucement et les montagnes offrent de jolies ombres et couleurs tout le long de la chaîne appelée “les organes“, on ne saura pas pourquoi d‘ailleurs. Ce qui est sûr, c’est que ces montagnes nous rappellent les dômes de la Baie d’Halong et de Ban Ha au Laos, dans un paysage complètement vert et calme. En chemin, je croise un de ces enfants fier d’avoir trouvé un joli holding the snake and a stick as triumphant as suspicious vis-à-vis the animal. In return, he has finally triumphed as it will be doing a massacre at great blows on the reptile, suddenly visibly less scary. On the road, I think I have crossed almost all means of land locomotion possible, those animal-drawn to motorized vehicles of all types (special dedication to ... Tunnées Ladas).
For the next day we choose to rent bicycles to go to a visibly rio muy Bonito "and potentially where you can swim! With our water reserves, we head to the Cueva del Indio, "Cuba's largest cave, which is unusual in part to visit by boat. The cave is actually pretty, furnished with beautiful lighting up an underground river, which is a waterfall upstream. Nice little trip except the engine noise to the 150-meter cellar ...
At the exit, you crack a little shopping: because if we can fill that package again, it does! We continue our journey into the countryside, still surrounded by fields of pineapple, mango branches that bend under the weight of enormous fruit approaching the book! Once le pont trouvé, après moult prises de renseignements, nous descendons le long de la rivière qui malheureusement est, comme on le pressentait, un peu boueuse. Pas grave, on profite de l’endroit pour “Faire un peu de salessa!” (à prononcer avec l’accent du sud), l’occasion de trouver le petit pas que nous réaliserons au pays de la salsa, de notre création! (comme dirait l’autre: “c’est en faisant n’importe quoi, que l’on invente n’importe quelle passe!”). Après cet interlude, nous prenons le chemin du retour, après un demi-tour d’ailleurs, “genre je connais le coin mais pas totalement”. Les maisons here are sometimes in sheets, sometimes the old roof of palm and pointed.
But after our 3-4 hours of good biking, Aude needs a little energy (and despite what the gossips say, I do not talk about rum, but sugar. After actually the two are not mutually exclusive). So we stop at people, urging them a little lift. It is with infinite kindness they invite us to come and sit at home while the householder prepares a pineapple. Again, a stop improvised fills us with joy in a simple exchange, non-mercantile And finally a real contact with the Cubans! After we feasted, we thank them but they will add a layer, wondering if I have room in the bag to give us a pineapple to go! What kindness! We have a small gift to give them as we try to do as soon as we can. We returned quietly to Vinales, where we expect a nap before making a final meal in this backwater .... 'm Not for everyone, because what a surprise return from the cena in our room had a visit from a beautiful tarantula next to where I passed the night without seeing her. Aude, she will have good noticed, without being really scared because finally, a spider the size of a hand at the foot of the bed, it's normal .... This will not prevent a tragic end ... Bim! A tap in your face!
Only small problem here since the start here, the final score led by our very helpful hostess Manzana ... Indeed, all these proposals, we are finally appeared very interested, because the smallest piece of fruit consumption has been charged ... Admittedly, this is a home stay, but her kindness she offered us a lot of things ("You take it when même un fruit?…“), ce qui avait surtout pour but de nous faire dépenser de l’argent chez elle. Nous nous sommes méfiés, mais pas suffisamment pour finalement partir un peu déçus par une relation de sympathie qui nous est alors apparue que dans le but de nous faire “cracher de la tune“, comme c‘est écrit dans certains guides. En effet, elle nous a proposés, avec le sourire mais aussi insistance, beaucoup de choses gentiment tout en nous faisant remarquer très souvent que tel touriste leur avait acheté un cheval, ou tel cadeau offert par un autre, comme l’ordinateur qu’un autre touriste doit leur envoyer avec un téléphone portable… Du coup, we ask the question a bit of the kindness of Cubans, in a communist country label, are the best capitalists and people seem to enjoy, with a little trickery probably fair game. Even if it seems normal to have prices for tourists and the local prices, the difference is huge when the premises we are paying the price multiplied by 50, all with a fallacious argument, reinforcing the appearance profiteer more a vital need for real money, even if their conditions are not always obvious. For education, access to care are free, each person has a home and there is a minimum food "available" to anyone, including minimizing the difficult living conditions. If
kindness has a price, Cuba is one of the true relationship as soon as we touch and tourism is a shame.
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