Wednesday, May 6, 2009

Cinematic Orchestra - To Build A Home Sheet

Huayna Potosi

Departure from La Paz to 9am, accompanied by Aude. Well yes, because obviously, despite an organization millimeter, I forgot something and will be the AR at the hotel! Finally, alone in my minivan, I go with my guide Mario and Dueño agency for 3 days and 2 days of hiking in the mountains. We take the road that overlooks the city of La Paz, which leaves behind the Illimani mountain over 6000 meters and also dominates the city. We made a stop at Alto, a city above La Paz and believes 10% of each year (La Paz is in a bowl, newcomers live on the edge here). Then finally comes out of urban roads and go towards Tuni, from where we start. It takes place before taking a small meal and above all, rent a mule that will accompany us during the 3 hour hike that will lead us to the camp.

The mule party before with another group, we walk into a dry landscape, where I can admire Condoriri snowy called like that, because these 3 peaks reminiscent of a condor with wings half open and it imposes.

the edge of the lake and more than 4000 meters above sea level, it is cool but I have no desire to walk, which is rather good news. On the way, there are essentially llamas

and with Mario, the guide, we will stop to help a shepherd who cares for two of his animals. And technique to maintain the animal is simple: just keep it by the ears, head down, resisting the attacks of the unfortunate prisoner. Finally, after cutting a piece of string which shook leg and crippled, it starts and it catches the small group of 3 mules, led by their owners. Mario talks to the lady while I participated in the Advanced buritos 3. Indeed, not speaking the Aymara, who struggled with English, I communicate with animals! You should know that myself, with my bag, my sunglasses and my walking shoes at the end of life, I'm clever. But here the local walk in sandals (sometimes with socks), with equipment, curtains and small colored hat and I can not compete, so I'd have a look ridiculous and I should suffer.

fact remains that I opportunity to meet a small group of 3-chileno English also using mules to make an ascent the next day. The discussion is done in English for me and they answer me in French, and it works! In a super site, we do the camp overlooking the lake, Condoriri, the Pica Negra and his herd of llamas. After a small snack, I let Mario do the dinner and I go walking in the mountains, to get a nice view over the whole place. Okay I will also work because it is cold enough to enc ... And that's where I meet llamas. Indeed, this animal, with its long neck, his thick hair like I fear, has a comical behavior. Seeing as you arrive, he comes to meet you, slowly but confidently.

Then, once close enough, he stopped and defeated a little look. Say that at first I'm suspicious, just to not make me kick or spit as the legend says. But nothing! Once stopped, if I take a step forward it as a bar girl! Me and my 65 kilos (plus 3 pounds of pull) I'm easy in the mountains and not even afraid. Finally, the sun goes down and I slowly returned to the camp to enjoy a good soup and pasta and a mate for me warm. He is 19h and it's time to go to bed!

Where I was, there is not much to do except become wedged in the down. I think that's when I thought I almost died. In fact, I think I'm a bit sick and toilets at 2AM, at the front, T-shirt, by -3 degrees under a moon absolutely superb (ah the good news!)

will remain engraved in the rock ... Bah at 4500 meters! Sunrise at 7am is almost a liberation, as I woke up in my down countless times in refrigerated overnight. Fortunately, a good breakfast and the morning sun will do good. It defrosts the tent and we set off for a day's walk, crossing valleys, magnificent views of the snowy mountains, overlooking lakes sometimes improbable colors, recalling the presence of minerals in the rock. Besides here, lost in the valleys, there are some mines and "Mineros" working at altitude and a hell of a cold ... bah ah there it will not, it is summer! We finally arrived after a day's march to the camp consists of a concrete house and 3 walls for toilets, with stunning views of Huayna Potosi and the plain. Arriving early, we are awaiting the delivery of business ... by a motorcycle (I do not really understand where the mules had gone ...). The good news is that I am no longer sick and that we will pitch our tent in the house made of clay brick and roof sheets. As in the previous camp, one is greeted by the camp manager with whom we share the "cena" spontaneously giving her sweet black to thank Mario. Potatoes are a black staples in altitude, the taste is unique and they are planted in cold soils. Nice moment partage où le dueno essaie de m’apprendre quelques mots d’Aymara, au milieu du Condoriri.
Finalement, on repart au petit jour, après une bonne nuit, pour quelques heures de marche qui nous amènent jusqu’au refuge de Huayana Potosi. On croise quelques lamas toujours dans un cadre de carte postale,
l’occasion d’apprendre que les lamas sont des animaux propres, dormant toujours au même endroit dégarni d’herbes et ayant presque comme des toilettes. Apres le déjeuner au refuge, Mario repart à La Paz chercher le matériel, me laissant l’après-midi pour aller voir le lac…
OK Mario! "Otherwise, the mountain side it can climb and how high is it? Oh it's a 5000 meter with equipment, because one side of the summit is snow-covered: the Charguini. A plane would have crashed it a few years ago, but it contained only meat. It was to put in the fridge? Finally
with the recommendations of Mario I launched myself "there is only the beginning of the road, which should not deviate and was quite dangerous, but do not go very top." The climb becomes a bit more complicated indeed after a half hour, forced to trudge a bit by attention to the rocks. But once up there, what a pretty sight even on the artificial lake, the valley and surrounding mountains, the most impressive being the Huayan facing me. I'm still a little time to enjoy and take some pictures.

And I went down trying to avoid a possible fog and night. This is done quickly allowing me to go to the dam hydroelectric retention. Being part of a large complex, it participates in the supply of La Paz to Santa Cruz (I know it tells you nothing, but I do like I learned basic stuff). That evening I shared the meal with an Australian and two Israelis, fun, an opportunity to speak a little of that culture, which I understand even less than before and conflict in the Middle East. And it's interesting to talk with one of them will say yes to me the Israelis are not necessarily appreciated, perhaps by the fact that they live without constantly worrying about what's going on around is called open. In any case, they were not armed and want peace, saying Israeli, but wanting to make room for a Palestinian state. It's nice to meet people moderate, intelligent and caring themselves as much as others with whom they are forced to share a territory. It will end in game of cards before you do a warm night. The next morning, I take the place taking time for breakfast and write a bit, before finding Mario with a French and an Austrian, with whom I share the experience of mountaineering. We got to know about the lunch, necessary before the accession to the base camp at the foot of snow, which rises to 5130 meters. Rise after 1:20, we ask ourselves a bit before moving on to a bit of practice in the snow.
The advantage is that the Huayna Potosi is not very technical and learning is only rudimentary. In the evening there is a dozen tourists at the shelter for all and is a first, so there's a bit of tension during the coup messing around a bit and tell some crap with PE, the French in turn motorcycle in South America, I give you the link blog; bornesinamerica.com. Some pictures of the sunset, a picture of Super Kiki, who will be a big success (obviously when the guide is the nickname Super Mario) a plate of pasta later and everyone goes to bed at 19h. The
wakes up at 1am for a departure to 2am. We're going to end 3 with PE and Mario, Armin was a bit sick and had not slept all night (it will rise with Martin, the other guide, taking breaks, where he will sleep in the snow ¼ hour ...).
No need to front as the full moon shines, making even our shadows appear on the snow. Here we go quietly with a few breaks. PE during the climb is a bit tired, I have the advantage of being well acclimatized and having walked in altitude 3 days. This allows me to fully enjoy the climb and to truly live the present moment. It is a walk on the ice early avec crampons et piolet avec une petite crevasse à traverser, une partie un peu plus technique, le tout encordé. Mais à l’approche du sommet, le terrain devient raide et il s’agit de bien planter son matériel et de s’y accrocher. Les derniers 150 mètres se font carrément en faisant corps avec la paroi, avant d’accéder à une corniche avec le vide de part et d’autre. En fait, on se retrouve à marcher sur un passage étroit de 40 centimètres avec un renfort de neige sur l’un des cotés. Autant dire qu’à ce moment là, il s’agit pas de se marcher sur les pieds, de se prendre la lanière des crampons ou de riper…
Finalement le sommet reached, the sun rises over the sea of clouds, where more than a few peaks, La Paz and Lake Titicaca that happiness! We take advantage of the landscape, sitting at 6088 m on a snowbank not based on anything really. But it is already time to descend, back through these small passages that are a little adrenaline and happiness. I'm getting comfortable with the equipment and, as I do the descent in mind is a really good memory. We returned to the shelter
base camp under the sun to cool in fooling around and making photo stops, in a snowy landscape and surreal. It's like I Well ... in a documentary at the same time, I did, and for me it was a great experience both easier than I thought, but if unusual. After a break, we come back to the valley, loaded with our big bags to find the vehicle that brings us back to La Paz, late five days in the mountains. What
memorable experience ....
Go for fun a few slices of mountaineering ...



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