Friday, May 22, 2009

Silk Pillowcases Macy's

Cuzco and the Sacred Valley

We arrived in Cusco after many hours on the bus (when I say many, is 16h more waiting for the connection ...) as well say a little tired and suddenly not very motivated to go to the meeting of a city. However, once the guest is found, we discover the streets and squares being more like a small town that a city. Pretty pavers, walls Incas unbeatable English (yeah finally done except that the walls "Inca" of the English city, they most likely originate from archaeological sites around, stripped for the occasion. So? Still classes walls of Cuzco?), colonial buildings, beautiful churches
and, slipping, beautiful patio homes popular with wood interiors and balconies. What a pity that we have made the lazy: no picture to show you all! Go, join us in the direction of the agencies to consider the possibility of a Choquequirao trek between (similar to Machu Picchu site discovered more recently) and Machu Picchu. First slap: it is 7 days minimum when we have only 5, missed the trek. Not letting us deter you, we head to the tourist office. Second slap: around Cuzco, we must pay dearly for a ticket overall tourism that leaves no opportunity to choose which sites you want to visit ... the ticket is expensive for 5 sites or anything ... Well! It has very little time in Peru, we accept the rules of the game Especially, it is clear that once again it is impossible to ask something that would emerge un petit peu du moule. C’est marrant d’ailleurs à quel point on observe ça souvent ici. Ils proposent des jus de fruits mangue-orange et fruit de la passion-banane, mais si on demande un mangue-passion, c’est la panique! Il faut pas s’étonner que la xénophobie fasse partie de ce monde quand rien qu’une demande non inscrite sur une carte déclenche la panique, remarque judicieuse de Matthieu…
Bref, nous avons donc accepté les conditions et commençons notre circuit touristique par le musée des Incas. On passe le coté céramique du rez-de-chaussée.. On aurait pu refaire la vidéo d’Alep tellement dès la première salle on a dû partir s’aérer out to motivate! But it's done on the second floor. The collection teaches part of the life of the Incas, and if we still feel a lack of culture on the subject, we now know more about the people colonized colonizer.
But what attracts us most is the culture in vivo direction then our first Inca site: Saqsayhuaman (I know, it's unpronounceable. So how to cope? Say "Sexy Woman" is fun and most effective!). Located on the mountain overlooking the city (just for its strategic positioning),
Saqsayhuayman was a temple du soleil avant d’être considéré comme une forteresse du fait de la lutte menée contre les envahisseurs Espagnols. Ce qui est de suite saisissant, au-delà de la dimension magistrale du site (le deuxième plus grand après le Machu Picchu), c’est l’art mis en œuvre pour sa construction.
Les blocs de pierre, allant jusqu’à plus de 100 tonnes, étaient taillés les uns par rapport aux autres en se basant sur la moulure en argile des pierres avoisinantes pour la découpe du bloc dans la carrière, puis le bloc était alors taillé sur place en fonction des détails de chaque pierre. D’autre part, les blocs, plus gros à the base and decreasing from stage to stage to remind the perfection found in nature, were erected obliquely to seismic action ...
While there, we say bravo. We return therefore
the site, armed with our book on the Sacred Valley to serve as our guide, and a hill arpentons randomly to find out more before this amazing site. Here, a natural waterslide is a joy for children, but not only!


Another surprise: you do not cease to wonder at the "slow" archeology, still active on this site, however, "rediscovered" many years ago. The story continues to surprise us ... The site name means, according to pronunciation, an esoteric meaning in connection with the puma, or (roughly) the condor happy as this place was the scene of the massacre orchestrated this which was once a stronghold of the last Inca ... Yet we face rises all the majesty and beauty of this site perfect.
Well OK, the real throne is there ...

There are even, with our book, we must admit!, There a snake in the stone,
is a bird,
is a fish!
They are strong, the Incas!
But we soon decided to leave this site to win one of Qenqo, a short walk before dark. Except that path, Matt finds a game of football to play immediately and spontaneously invited by local youngsters. Here we go (this is the case to say ...) for half an hour of sports, sun west,
and there, I'm glad, because this is the first time, hands on knees and shortness of breath,
my lover will feel the effect of altitude , an effect that I know very well from Bolivia!
short, after some not very pleasant under the trees, we arrive at the site of Qenqo. Passed the feeling of simple block of stone (predominant in accessing the site), we try to build the caravan of tourists who succeeded to make the photo Micheline hair restyled front of the stone toad (although with plenty of imagination sûr… Les Incas, c’est bien une culture différente et avec elle, toute une vision du monde!!), que Roberto remette ses lunettes qui ne servent plus à rien vue la pénombre pour se faire tirer le portrait sur le trône… Vous l’aurez compris, le seul intérêt des groupes de touristes pour nous, c’est définitivement l’absorption de quelques commentaires ça et là pour en apprendre davantage sur le site. Résultat la pierre s‘anime : là un autel des sacrifices, là une fontaine, là une zone astronomique. Poursuivant notre découverte du site par la lecture des informations données par notre bouquin, on avouera avoir retenu exclusivement que le site was an esoteric absolute perfection of the symbolism is absolutely dedicated to ... impervious to our European minds! We did not understand the layers of explanation on the lines that appear over time, but reported to the outer space into believing a spaceship meet soon!
But the sun goes down and we come back down to Cuzco. The next day we enter the sacred valley ... After struggling a bit to get the right bus, we go to Pisac, its traditional market and its Inca ruins. We were told that this market was a place of exchange, barter, because of la rencontre entre les producteurs de produits frais des bas et l’artisanat des hauts. Mais à défaut d’intercambio, nous trouvons surtout un marché d’artisanat très touristique, avec interpellations en anglais tous les mètres et prix indiquant clairement qu’ici, ils ne sont pas là pour enfiler des perles. Mais vous connaissez déjà notre grande capacité d’adaptation en matière d’économie régionale et notre bonté n’ayant d’égale que notre souplesse, nous troquons l’option on-laisse-un-sac-à-Cuzco-pour-voyager-léger contre sa concurrente on-se-blinde-d’artisanat-à-ramener-en-France… Quel talent! Ben oui et puis avec all that, we also placed intercambio serving time, are trading at the same time the weather this morning for the market covered against the first drops of rain to go to the site ... No really, well done! And yet we learn that no less than an hour's climb ahead,
through farmland, leading to some ruins the rhythm of the storm that thunders in the distance and sends the ominous dark gray clouds. Pisac is definitely a place amazing. Here were centralized administrative tasks and the attic area on the mountains overlooking the valley and its cultures below.
The ruins, though actually fairly well preserved (it should still be using the book and our imagination to visualize what the site at the time of the Incas), depict the entire organization knew that demonstrate the Incas. The terraces on the other hand came from the ingenuity of the Incas land, the fruits of advanced technological research and implemented to create ecosystems that can withstand cold, wind and irrigation problems.
This incredible technology, coupled with une sélection scrupuleuse des semences, a permis aux Incas de développer par exemple pas moins de 17 variétés de maïs dans la zone!
Au bout du chemin, traversant un tunnel et passant une porte Inca, nous arrivons finalement au cœur du site pendant que le chœur de l’orage nous nargue de sa voix puissante. Succession d’habitations,
fontaines au système ingénieux dont l’efficacité à traversé les âges, bains, les constructions défient le temps pour nous donner une vision peut-être plus précise du système Inca.
Seules les perles du tonnerre nous incitent à partir, preferring taxi (negotiated for several minutes during a good portion of fun with the drivers, not fooled by their own price!) to the wet descent by the same route.
Below, we end our shopping and enjoy an incredible opportunity to find a bus to Ollantaytambo in 10 minutes ... What timing!
We reach this fourth Inca site only an hour bus a little further into the valley, arriving at dusk, just in time to find a great address, hostal El Tambo - Matacuy, located one cuadra and half from the main square and offering a room in a nice house, terrace mezzanine overlooking a lovely garden and enjoying the warm and friendly welcome from the owner. We borrow the beautiful cobbled streets to the sound of merry rills of water run along the walls to eat fried chicken and go home to bed. What is our surprise to discover the next morning the mountain views and the Inca site right here, from the railing. The blue sky and sun offer us the promise of a beautiful day and everything is rested and happy to be where we go to the archaeological site. We're now houses some beautiful storefront on pavements in the village fully renovated, seeming aujourd’hui vivre au rythme d’un autre temps,
puis nous grimpons dans la montagne pour atteindre bien vite les premières ruines. De là, nous avons vue sur la ville
et, profitant de notre guide de papier glacé, nous nous adonnons à une petite lecture culturelle.

Ollantaytambo était connu pour être le berceau du maïs, plante qui a carrément donné sa forme au village (en forme d’épi de maïs donc). C’est en effet ici que les premiers essais de culture transgénique ont été réalisés! Oui, c’est qu’ici les Incas ont développé de nombreuses variétés de maïs, mettant à profit leurs connaissances de la nature pour modifier les conditions d‘ensoleillement, d‘irrigation etc. A moins que le village n’ait la forme d’un arbre coupé? Ben oui, c’est que ce qu’il y avait de bien avec les Incas, c’était leur imagination et leur capacité d’une part à chercher à organiser leur vie dans des représentations de la nature, d’autre part à faire coïncider leur environnement avec ces représentations, profitant des détails de paysage pour, agrémenté two three constructions, make them totally marry the desired shape. So? Tree cut or corn cob?


But enough of culture, two French, one of which met in Bolivia, joined where there is an opportunity to chat a bit. We greatly appreciate these moments of impromptu and spontaneous exchanges abroad which is seen more as a meeting may be any opportunistic (yes I know it will not tell). Regardless of the outcome of those moments because all the people we met on our journey, perhaps we only keep contact with the tenth but so what? The trip, as we believe life is about taking the time to share these moments without computing compatibility or viability of the relationship.
go, I stop the emotional outpourings, thank you both just happy travelers that we do not know the name but you remember the smiles, for the time spent together. Yeah finally it's all well and good, but it is late in the morning and as we wanted to succeed in reaching the foot of Machu Picchu in the day, we prefer to reach the other side of the village, the main site,

abandoning the monastery a few miles away. Anyway
is opposite that we can best see the face of the site where it was ... In fact, the Incas, still super strong forms unlikely to find mountains, and looking for a protector for their new village, we enjoyed a promontory in the rock until they cut into the shape of the profile of an Inca deity, or Wiracochan Tunupa, master of the knowledge of time.

The latter is represented on his back like a hood Father Christmas, the breadbasket of the region. This is indeed that the 2 food warehouses were built. The monastery is at her feet, completing the full match with perfection between natural and manmade ... So opposite that are the largest sites of Ollantaytambo. Agricultural terraces, buildings,

colossal stones

leaving just small promontories appear smooth for astronomical purposes.

Because here we are in the Inca site of astrology. We admit disappointment with having missed the most sophisticated instrument ... It is the astronomical observatory Inticcahuarina, a rock cut which protrude a few high-relief of a few centimeters, whose shadow, at the summer solstice in very precisely at 12:30 in exactly the notches cut into below. So this perfect agreement announced in the coming summer event agrarian utmost importance. Moreover, the effects of shade and sun were ever left to chance here: Tunupa in the face of the rock seems to have closed eyes in the morning, opened the afternoon the sun shines, when summer solstice, exactly square of crops (Pacaritanpu, estate of 9 terrace cultivation) representing not only the origin of the Incas and life but also that of maize, from a sunrise on the left of a mountain at a remove from the right ... add to solstice This image of the constellation of the llama that "wakes up" during the Sundance and you will understand that the examples are so many on this site Ollantaytambo it would be tedious to list them here. But let's say that this site has really given a sense of Inca art, so that one wonders why the Spaniards have taken for wild ones, certainly without sophisticated instruments, arrived at least the same astronomical knowledge that the Conquistadors them less friendly ... We leave Ollantaytambo
the heart bursting with admiration for what this civilization developed as knowledge and art to serve as their beliefs.

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